Carbide Rotary Burrs
Shapes, tooth cut, which cut for each material, speeds, technique and safety — a complete usage guide.
Carbide rotary burrs are small rotary cutters that remove material with air die grinders, flexible shafts or Dremel-type multitools. They're used for deburring, shaping, grinding welds, and opening and finishing metal. The cutting head is tungsten carbide, which holds its edge far longer than high-speed steel (HSS). The right choice depends on three things: the head shape, the tooth cut, and the material you're working.
The shapes and what each is for
Each shape has a standard letter per DIN 8033 / ISO 7755 (ANSI B94.19 uses the codes SA–SN). All the basic shapes are for general use on all materials — the shape determines the surface you work:

Cuts on the periphery. Flat surfaces, straight edges, removing material in a line.

Cuts at the face too — corners, shoulders, blind spots.

Rounded end for smooth blends without a sharp mark at the base.

Cavities, internal curves, opening holes, spherical recesses.

Smooth, convex surfaces and elliptical recesses.

Corners, internal radii and hard-to-reach spots, with a rounded tip.

Pointed tip for tight corners and fine shaping.

Pointed, for spherical recesses and spots with limited access.

14° cone with a rounded tip — angled surfaces with a smooth finish.

Angled surfaces, edge breaking (chamfer), bevels.

Undercuts and internal bevels.

Countersinking, edge breaking, weld preparation.
Dimension code: each burr is described by four dimensions — d1 head diameter, l2 cut length, d2 shank diameter, l1 total length. These map to the Diameter / Cut / Total options on each product page. See the shapes live in the Buying Guide, where each shape filters the collection in one click.
Tooth cut: how it cuts
The tooth cut (how the teeth are ground) determines how fast and how smoothly the burr cuts, and which material it suits.
Single cut: one row of teeth. High removal rate and a very good finish on steel, cast iron, INOX and non-ferrous metals.
Double / cross cut: like single but with an added cross cut. Smaller chips, smoother finish, less vibration. The most common general-purpose cut for metal.
Diamond cut: dense cross-hatched teeth for stainless (INOX), steel and high-temperature materials. High removal with short chips and an excellent finish.
ALU cut (open): sparse, open teeth so soft materials don't clog. For aluminium, copper, brass and plastics.
Which cut for which material
A general rule — choose by material and whether you're doing coarse removal or finishing:
| Material | Coarse removal | Finishing |
|---|---|---|
| Steel (< 38 HRC) | Double | Fine double |
| Hardened steel (> 38 HRC) | Double / Diamond | Single / fine |
| Stainless (INOX) | Diamond | Fine |
| Aluminium & soft non-ferrous | ALU (open) | ALU |
| Brass, copper, zinc | ALU / single | Single |
| Hard non-ferrous / titanium | Diamond | Fine |
| High-temperature materials | Diamond / double | Fine |
| Cast iron | Double | Fine / single |
| Plastics / reinforced (GRP/CRP) | ALU (open) | ALU |
General-purpose burrs for metal have a double, cross cut. The aluminium-specific ones have the open ALU cut. No need to hunt by code — the material category tells them apart.
Why carbide and not HSS
Tungsten carbide is much harder than high-speed steel (HSS) and holds its edge at high temperatures, so carbide burrs cut hard materials and last many times longer. The trade-off is that carbide is brittle: it snaps if bent sideways or dropped — so correct technique and rigid clamping matter.
Shank and speeds
The shank comes in Ø6 mm (professional standard, rigid) and Ø3 mm (for small Dremel-type tools). Speed depends on head diameter: the larger the head, the lower the RPM, so the peripheral cutting speed stays safe.
| Head diameter | Indicative speed (rpm) |
|---|---|
| Ø 3 mm | 35,000 – 50,000 * |
| Ø 6 mm | 25,000 – 35,000 |
| Ø 10 mm | 15,000 – 25,000 |
| Ø 12 mm | 12,000 – 22,000 |
| Ø 16 mm | 10,000 – 18,000 |
| Ø 20 mm and up | 8,000 – 15,000 |
* With high-speed tools (pencil grinders) small burrs reach ~90,000 rpm. Indicative values; for stainless and hard materials keep the RPM lower. Never exceed the stamped maximum speed. Use powerful tools with an elastically mounted spindle for less vibration and longer life.
Long shank: for hard-to-reach spots. Needs rigid clamping; not for robotic or stationary applications due to breakage risk.
Correct technique
Let the tool cut. Light, steady pressure — speed does the work, not force.
Steady contact angle. Let the whole head work, not just the tip.
Don't bend the shank sideways. Carbide is brittle; side force snaps it.
Keep the burr moving. Dwelling in one spot builds heat and leaves marks.
Safety
Never exceed the maximum permitted speed shown — on large heads centrifugal force can throw the head off.
Wear safety goggles (chips fly), and gloves, a dust mask and ear protection are recommended.
Don't use a worn or damaged burr. Make sure the shank is fully and firmly in the collet, and let it stop completely before setting it down.
Care and storage
Tap to see details.
Cleaning›
Clean chips and residue from the teeth with a wire brush or a dedicated cleaner. A loaded burr cuts worse and overheats.
When to replace it›
When it needs more pressure for the same result, leaves heat marks, or the teeth have rounded or chipped. A blunt carbide heats the workpiece instead of cutting it.
Storage›
Store burrs separately (in a case or stand) so the heads don't knock together. Carbide edges chip on impact.
Carbide Rotary Burrs
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